AHP (A HERITAGE PARTY)

The AHP family

The Advocates for Heritage Preservation celebrated it very first Christmas Party at Barbara's in Intramuros on Sunday, 18 December, 2016. What happens when you get at least seventy individuals who have a shared passion for heritage?  If you think, people who appreciate the value of ancestral homes, ancient sites and magnificent churches have boring, stuffy celebrations... you are sadly mistaken!

Tito Encarnacion, Earl Gamboa, Jigs Medina, Faviola Torres, Ace Burwell, Jose Benigno Salvador, Mark Fule, Me*

We were meant to have a party last year, which did not materialize. This year, Tito Encarnacion rallied the members to push through with the event. The word spread like wild fire. And before we all knew it, the event had transformed into a costume party for everyone to come in Filipiniana attire. 

The women of AHP

Dennis Roland Castanos

Prior to the event, board members of the Dakila'ng Pamana ng Lahi met at the adjacent Ristorante del Mitre to discuss our position paper on the destruction of some heritage sites in Manila. You see, we don't just admire these sites we visit, we also try to preserve and protect them by playing an active role in these localities. Present at the meeting were Tito Encarnacion and Aye Encarnacion, Ka Lino Atienza and Mye Atienza, Febe Sevilla, Tim Delez, Lito Ligon and myself. By a quarter before six, we had to adjourn as we had started to observe some members of AHP arriving in full regalia.

Lea Amante Villapando

Now normally, we visit areas in our now identifiable yellow gold tees and we make a statement to local governments that: "hey, we're watching you preserve heritage sites!" This time around, everybody was dressed to the nines. It was difficult identifying the attendees at times because they actually looked... well... different...

Alice De Vera Vasquez and son*

Orven Cataniag

I had arrived in gym attire just in case no one was in the agreed costume. I'm glad I packed my costume lest I look out of place. When I got to the venue I saw friends groomed and manicured; glamorized and stylized; be-jewelled and be-dazzled.Was I going to be left out? I had to give in. Quick Change...and voila, instant Cinderella transformation!! Tim Delez and Lito Ligon had acted as official photographers. But this being an AHP gathering, selfies, groupies, shoefies and costumefies were de-rigeur.

the Magbubukid group*

The first person I saw taking shots was Lloyd Anthony Nuestro Rafols in a formal black gown with a butterfly sleeved bolero in jusi and an accent choker dripping in mother of pearl. Precy Vivar Quinto arrived much later in a little black dress version When i went upstairs, Maestro Jose Benigno Salvador, who was the evening's host, was in an all white sack linen ensemble with a maroon insert and a mis-matched pair of bakya (wooden clogs). What a statement on his footwear! Faviola Torres (utility LGBT) was in a black and white Barong Tagalog and black trousers. Madam Pheeyah Salones was in a purple terno which was heavily embroidered in colorful blooms. That convinced me to get dressed!

the Mindanao Group*

People started arriving randomly in pairs or in groups but they were garbed in native dress. The group of Rheeza Hernandez (the co-host) were in rural Bulacan attire. The San Pablo contingent of Mark Fule, Naning Esguerra, Earl Gamboa were dapper in their callado pina Barongs. Maricar Anatalio, Esquierdo Bhel Asinas, Marichelle Santos and the rest of the "tribal" group were either in ikat, hablon or malongs and tons of beads.  Vica Tigno and Bing Tubid were in patadyong. The Kultura Filipina Dancers (composed mainly of students) provided a suite of indigenous dances representing Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao. Ace Burwell, Faviola Torres took a jab at Tinikling ( native dance set to bamboo clappers. Then photo ops with the dancers took place.      

Group pic with Alice de Vera Vasquez and son, Vica Tigno, Maricar Anatalio, Dennis Rloand Castanos, Mary Grace Artuz, Marizelle Agapito, Emy Emerald, Claro Viloria, etc.

Out of the official roster of guests indicated below, only a few could not make it to the event. But here are the names of those who made the evening memorable:

Annie and Jayce Obeya, Allan Martinez, Aye and Tito Encarnacion, Ding and Pheeyah Salones, Bhel Asinas*

1) Agapito, Marizelle

2) Anatalio, Maricar 

3) Artuz, Maria Grace 

4) Asinas, Bhel 

5) Atienza, Lino 

6) Atienza, Mye 

7) Basco, Mark 

8) Bernardo, Johnson 

9) Bolislis, Ferdi 

10) Castanos, Dennis 

11) Cejar, Arlene 

12) Cejar, Czar 

13) Cejar, Jonny 

14) Cejar, Lord

15) Cejar, Prince 

16) Delez, Marlene 

17) Delez, Tim 

18) Delez, Trishka

19) Dulay, Emy 

20) Dulay, Joem 

21) Encarnacion, Aye 

22) Encarnacion, Tito 

23) Escartin, Dodie 

24) Escartin, Corinne 

25) Esguerra, Naning 

26) Faustino, Dominic 

27) Fule, Mark 

28) Gamboa, Earl 

29) Garcia, Arthur 

30) Gonzales, Gema 

31) Gorme, Jhon 

32) Hernandez, Jonathan 

33) Hernandez, Rheeza 

34) Lapira, Addel 

35) Ligon, Lito 

36) Limbo, Ruel 

37) Marasigan, Zaldy 

38) Maristany, Dennis 

39) Martinez, Allan 

40) Mateos, Lorenzo 

41) Medina, Jigs 

42) Morales, Alejandro 

43) Nuqui, Del 

44) Obeya, Annie Grace 

45) Rafols, Anthony Lloyd 

46) Roldan, Anette*

47) Rosero, Earl 

48) Salones, Pheeyah 

49) Salones, Pheeyah 

50) Salvador, Jose Benigno 

51) Santos, Joyce 

52) Santos, Marichelle 

53) Sevilla, Febe 

54) Tigno, Vica 

55) Torres, Faviola 

56) Tubid, Bing

57) Vasquez, Alice 

58) Villapando, Lea Amante 

59) Viloria, Claro 

60) Viola, Maria Santos 

Myself, Jonathan and Rheeza Hernandez, Marichelle Santos, Bing Tubid, Orven Cataniag

Jigs Medina, Jose Benigno Salvador, Mark Fule, Febe Sevilla, Naning Esguerra

1) Abellera, John Paul
2) Aranilla, Jojie
3) Burwell, Ace
4) Caminade, Bunny
5) Coscolluela, Ana David
6) Cruz, Chi-chi
7) De Los Reyes, Susan
8) Galvez, Jennifer
9) Galvez, Noel
10) Jusi, Joel
11) Jusi, Ma. Dulce
12) Jusi, Jannah Aleeza
13) Martinez, Fely P.
14) Obeya, Jace
15) Quinto, Precy Vivar
16) Raymundo, Melchor
17) Ver, Maricris 

the Tribal Group with Maricar Anatalio and Lea Amante Villapando*

Tito Encarnacion and Ka Lino Atienza delivered very short speeches  to announce next year's protest against the demolition of the Rizal Memorial Sports Complex and to kick of the rest of the evening's activities. Some generous members, donated prizes for a raffle draw that proved to be the highlight of the evening. Some people actually burned off what they ate from the sumptuous dinner buffet from laughing so hard at the antics of the trio of Jose Benigno Salvador, Rheeza Hernandez and Faviola Torres. Keepsakes, gift items and precious coffee table books were given away to lucky winners.

L-R: Pheeyah Salones, Faviola Torres, Myself, Bing Tubid, Jigs Medina, Bhel Asinas, Lloyd Anthony Nuestro Rafols*

The announcement of the Best in Costume winners was the highlight of the evening. Leah Amante Villapando and Lloyd Anthony Nuestro Rafols were the big winners having won books as well. While Pheeyah Salones and myself lorded it over everyone else as the party's Hermana and Hermano Mayor. On a personal note, I think we will be facing a dilemma for next Christmas... How on earth are we gonna top all this fun?

L-R: Pheeyah Salones, Lea Amante Villapando, the author, Lloyd Anthony Nuestro Rafols*

Merry Christmas to my readers and followers!!!!

my photo edited by Bhel Esquierdo Asinas*

*photos used in this article were taken by Tim Delez, Lito Ligon, Jonathan Hernandez, Mitoy Orosa, et. al.

PAWIKAN PAGEANTRY

I was invited to be a judge for the Pawikan Turtle) Festival for a second year in a row. This was a thrill I wouldn't want to turn down. Specially because I was one of the resource persons tapped to lecture on costume design and production two years ago.

Amy Canares of the Bataan Tourism Council and Nilo Agustin of the Department of Tourism tapped me as one of the judges in a panel composed of Nonoy Froilan, Ato del Rosario, Nilo Agustin, Arman Sta. Ana and myself. However, because of conflicting schedules, Nonoy Froilan and Nilo Agustin couldn't make it so they were replaced by Rodel Fronda and Peter de Vera.

I was in Pampanga earlier in the morning of the 26th of November  to be with my Advocates for Heritage Preservation family (see my Pampanga post). I had to cut it short so I could take the bus to Balanga, Bataan and meet with my hosts. By 1:00 p.m. I was dropped off at the Robinson's Mall I San Fernando, Pampanga so I could take the bus to Mariveles, Bataan and get off at the Bataan Tourism Office in Balanga. I was at the tourism office by 4:00 p.m. then I was whisked off to my home for the evening in a resort along the coastline of Morong, Bataan.

Bataan has an organization of resorts and hotels which take turns in hosting special guests for the Pawikan Festival. This year's host was the Phi Phi Beach Resort, After the obligatory check-in procedures, I was ushered to my room facing the ocean. It was past sunset so everything was dark but the sound of the waves was unmistakably clear and loud. Then I was off to dreamland,,, I had missed the night watch to witness the turtles digging their nests to deliver eggs after which they return to the ocean never seeing their offspring ever again.

I was up early in the morning to get ready for the Pawikan Festival. Festivities last the whole day but one of the activities was the Street Dancing Competition which starts at nine a.m. After a hearty breakfast, we headed to the venue. People had come from near and far. Families came with their kids to watch the hatchlings and some adults released into the wild.  The Governor of Bataan and most of the Mayors were present. Congresswoman Geraldine Roman was present too. The Tourism sector was represented by Undersecretary Benito  Bengson who accepted a plaque of appreciation for Secretary Wanda Teo .

To see these creatures wiggling to be free was just amazing! The other activities included were the Body Painting Competition, Beach Volleyball, and the Ceremonial Releasing of the turtles. Many years ago, locals were stealing the turtle eggs for their high protein content and served as meals or sold as souvenirs to unwitting tourists. Thankfully, people have become aware of preserving these creatures.

This year's Street Dancing competition was an improvement from last year's. The story boards were clearer and "tighter". The productions were cleaner. However, on some instances, the execution would suffer from inconsistencies in  terms of costume and music. There were only 11 participants out of the 12 towns of Bataan. In some performances, I can recall parts of costumes from last year that have been rehashed perhaps due to budget constraints. I am surprised that expenses for these production numbers were subsidized by the province's tourism committee. And so on the day of the event, eleven towns competed with a contingent of  25-30 members doing a 10 minute dance number that captures this year's theme: One Bataan in Saving the Pawikan!

The province realizes the potential for tourism that the conservation of these gentle creatures bring. It has now become so popular among wildlife enthusiasts to go to Morong on weekends and experience the process of egg laying of these turtles during egg laying season. Even beyond the day of the festival, interested parties may visit the Pawikan Conservation Center and do a night watch. They have a website and email address where you can coordinate with them if you plan to witness this exciting natural event. I plan to visit again next year and witness what I missed.

AHP's PAMPANGA PART 2

I didn't want to miss the second part of Advocates for Heritage Preservation's  Pampanga tour so I confirmed my participation weeks in advance. This time, the areas to be explored were Mexico and San Fernando. Naturally, I didn't want to miss the food lovingly prepared by long time friend and doyenne of Pampango heritage cuisine Aching Lillian Borromeo. I had brought some tourists on a culinary tour of Pampanga to her home to savor all the delights she would lovingly prepare in her kitchen. November 26th was no different.

As early as half past four I was at the appointed rendezvous in Buendia and Makati Avenue. There I met up with Ace Burwell and Bhel Esquierdo Asinas. Later on we were joined by Mike Asinas (our San Pablo host) and his friend Ed and Alice deVera Vasquez. We waited a little longer until Del Nuqui arrived and we were off to Pampanga. This time it was Johnson Bernardo on the steering wheel.

St Monica's relic

We made a roundabout route by exiting on the Mexico ramp along the North Luzon Expressway so we had to back-track through wide open expanses of rice fields and quaint communities around Mt. Arayat until we reached Sta. Monica church.  Located 71 km north of Manila, Mexico has had many changes over the years. One such "victim" of this change is the church. Fortunately, it was not through human intervention or neglect that caused the destruction but an earthquake in July 19, 1880. The church was badly damaged and never restored. The original belfry and convent, however, remained intact.

original belfry

The belfry now is in a fragile state; parts of it crumbling and so, out of sheer necessity a carbon copy is being constructed a few shorts steps to the left of the church. The tourism office of the town of Mexico was on hand to orient and give and audio-visual presentation while we were there. But the bonus was we, as guests, were given permission to enter the cloister of the Benedictine convent. This allowed for some, a clearer understanding of the contemplative order. Silence and introspection are necessary to drown out ambient noise in order to hear the voice of God in praise and adoration.

Old photos of Sta. Monica

It was a cloudy (rainy?) day so the next stop wasn't a walk in the park. The Hizon ancestral home was a welcome discovery despite the rains. I learned that the upkeep and maintenance of the home is currently being undertaken by Dita Sandico Ong. Famous for her extensive use of  native diaphanous material in barong  jusi and pina fibers which she fashions into wraps and shawls, tops and skirts the house sits as a testament to her artistic background in fashion. I have, on occasion, brought guests to her atelier in Wilson street, Greenhills. This was before she closed shop and moved to somewhere in New Manila.

This ancestral home sits on a huge lot surrounded by fruit trees and has a kamalig ( rice warehouse) at the back of the house. Her silong (ground level quarters) has been converted into a costume exhibit area where some of the AHP members tried on various head gear and shawls for photo ops. I stayed in the upper level to take photos of the well-appointed home where the callado (carved wooden valences indicated the initials of the former owners and the date in which the home was built (1927). The dining area featured huge plateras (serving trays) and pewter candelabras, a punkah ( indian inspired, manually operated fanning mechanism) and a collection of deer antler on the wall.

The Kusina (kitchen) was just as huge. the prepping table dominated the space  with a paminggalan (food storage) on the side wall. The kusinilyas (open fire pit/stoves) were on the far end complete with palayok (earthenware pots) and banga (earthenware water jar) were by the banggera (dish rack). Beyond it was the azotea (rear balcony) where the banyo and latrina (bath and toilets, literally) were located.

the undisputed Queen of Pampango heritage cuisine

The piece de resistance of this trip was a lunch stop at the home of Aching Lillian Borromeo. Her usual, bubbly self, Aching Lillian welcomed us into her improvised kitchen cum exhibit/demo area. This time around, I noticed a lot of improvements in her compound. For one, there is now an upper floor in the kitchen. It used to be just a wide open fenced in area in the bakuran (garden area)  with her century old cooking utensils within easy reach of curious onlookers and guests. We were given cucumber flavored welcome drinks to begin with then the cooking demo was underway. Tito Encarnacion (our dear founder/ motivator/influencer) introduced Aching Lillian to the other guests and the panecillos de San Nicholas (St. Nicholas cookies) demonstration took on a comical turn when she was assisted by Maestro Jose Benigno Salvador and Ace Burwell. Jerry Punzalan Sagmit also did a demonstration of another version of empanada. This was unlike the empanada kaliskis (scaly empanada) of Malolos. This empanada uses a pillowy soft dough that Jerry lovingly crimps by hand using a dying technique and is baked in the oven.

Jerry Punzalan Sagmit preparing heritage empanada

Lunch was one for the books! Pako (edible fern) salad,  chicharon (crispy pork rind) from Guagua, spring rolls, okoy na kalabasa (squash fritters with shrimps), steamed fish, embotido (meat roll), pork belly), chicken roulade...etc., etc. The food went on and on. I've forgotten some of the viands prepared. To sum it all up, there were 16 of them. I was too full to recall all of them but it was capped off with a dessert of tibok-tibok (carabao milk infused panacotta-like dessrt). After that, bedlam ensued when everybody wanted their photos taken with Aching Lillian and those who bought the second edition of her recipe book of heirloom recipes wanted their copies signed. I have the first edition with her signature on it but i'm looking forward to get the re-print because this one has me in one of the photos. Gotta get my second copy.

Aching Lillian Borromeo, Maestro Jose Benigno Salvador, Ace Burwell

Then it was off to their second stop in San Fernando which I wasn't able to go to. I had to be dropped off at the bus station in Robinson's Mall in San Fernando for my trip to Bataan so I could judge the Pawikan Festival the next day....

Panecillos de San Nicholas mould

STROLLING IN SAN PABLO

The Advocates for Heritage Preservation went to San Pablo on the third week of October to experience what San Pablo has to offer as far as tourism is concerned. San Pablo is a first class city and one of the oldest cities in the province of Laguna. It may not be top of mind as a weekend getaway for a group of family and friends, which is a pity, because San Pablo really has many points of interest to offer.

Located in the south of Laguna, San Pablo is nestled at the foot of three mountains: Mount Banahaw, Mount Maikiling and the Sierra Madre Mountains which provide many natural wonders aside from a fertile landscape that allows lush growth of flora. Known by a monicker as the City of Seven Lakes, many visitors go to tourist attractions in San Pablo that are more popularly known and more expensive, when one can just stroll around the city and admire the heritage and natural beauty of the city. San Pablo's seven lakes are : Sampalok Lake, Bunot Lake, Palakpakin Lake, Muhicap Lake, Yambo Lake, Pandin Lake, Kalibato Lake. This visit only allowed us a visit to Sampalok Lake which had a promenade are and some select areas for souvenir shops and quaint little cafes. The view along the boardwalk was divine. But I'm getting ahead of my story...

The tour of San Pablo was organized by AHP members who are from the area. Mark Alvero Fule, Earl Gamboa, and his grandfather who we fondly call Lolo Naning.  The first stop was at the Prudencia D. Fule Memorial National High School. A large part of their ancestral home remains standing in disarray because some families under the employ of the school have used this ancestral home for their own use. The school being established on the site was said to have been made possible through a land grant by the venerable Dona who never married.

Our next site visit was the Fule- Malvar Mansion.  Previously owned by Eusebia Fule and  Potenciano Malvar, the mansion is a study in  successful heritage preservation. The stately mansion was purchased by an insurance corporation and repurposed as their headquarters in the area. On special occasions, the mansion is opened to the public. We toured the house and its manicured grounds which was picture-perfect for the AHP visitors.

Fule-Malvar Mansion

After the mansion, the group went to the Asinas heritage home. Nestled amid lush fruit trees and stag- horn ferns is a well restored old home purchased from another town in Laguna (Lumban to be precise) in lieu of a Barong Tagalog by its new owner in the person of Mike Asinas. It was an auspicious day for Mr. Asinas while visiting Lumban. The former owner sold the home lock, stock and barrel including the contents of the home. He transplanted the home to a family lot within the boundaries of San Pablo City. This is however, not open to the public. We were special guests for the day. and what a lovely acquisition it was... It  seems that this home and another recent acquisition had been there for a century or two... The more recent one Mr.  Asinas reconstructed in his lot was purchased right across the Prudencia Fule Memorial National high school.

Asinas Home

New acquisition

Lunch was at Sulyap Café, not too far from where we were. These re-purposed homes had an old world charm that was perfect for the restaurant's native cuisine. We lunched on  Pako salad (edible fern) with slivers of salted egg and slices of tomato and onion served with a vinaigrette dressing, eggplant omelette,  grilled pork belly and some rice. We also had some time to view the cafe's collection housed in a mini museum. Some personnel served as guides to the museum which had an extensive collection of  houseware and furniture. I think they are also in the process of  organizing their own bed and breakfast soon.

Sulyap Cafe

After lunch we headed to the old Municipal Hall of San Pablo which is now a museum. This beautiful art-deco building sits on a hill overlooking the entire town with a view of Sampalok lake. Discovered by Juan de Salcedo in 1571, the village  became a parish by 1586 and then a municipality in 1647.  It was named San Pablo de los Montes after St. Paul the first hermit. placed under the jurisdiction of Batangas in 1756, it was returned to Laguna in 1883. They then established a municipal government under Atty. Inocente Martinez in 1899 and Marcos Paulino in 1902. The locals worked for independence of the province from Laguna froom 1926-1940 until on the 7th of May 1940 the charter  bill sponsored by Assemblyman Tomas D. Dizon was signed by President Manuel L. Quezon under the City Charter of San Pablo or Commonwealth Act No. 520.

We were feted with a couple of local folk dances by school kids from San Pablo and allowed to meander around the museum and perhaps purchase some local delicacies and souvenirs. Then we walked towards the Sampalok Lake to enjoy the view and relish in the cool breeze around the lake. We spent a lot of time taking snapshots of the post-card pretty scene and then we motored off to the St. Paul the Hermit Church.

Sampalok Lake

As a last stop, the church did not disappoint. I even got comments from a friend that the duomo resembled Rome. The outer impasto was done in a rose/ brick tone. It had three levels on the façade. Each segment has a series of columns and a railing on top of the pediment. Niches adorn the ground and second segment with flourishes and statuary.  On the left side is the bell tower accented by arched windows and ending in a turret with a cross on top.  What a fitting final stop to a great tour. The promise of an overnight stay looms...

BATAAN AT ITS BEST

I don't always get to visit Bataan. It's quite near Manila; at least 3-4 hour drive, but I don't always have a proper reason to drop everything I'm doing and go there. Recently, I was invited to go on a day trip to Bataan... Bagac, Bataan to be precise.

The fun thing is, everyone on this day trip knew each other. Huddled in two vans, all 24 of us wanted to visit the sites on the itinerary: Mt. Samat, Dunsulan Falls and Las Casas Filipinas Ciudad de Acuzar. The call time for rendezvous was at 4a.m. You'd think that was early? It was just the right time. It was good enough to catch some sleep en route to the sites.

Dambana ng Kagitingan Main Hall

Our collective prayers were somehow answered. The tropical storm had veered away on that day. But it was still rainy and dreary. But because everyone was in high spirits, no one complained about the rainy weather. On the contrary we were prepared for it. We had parkas and umbrellas so rain or no rain, we had decided to make the most of the trip.

Museum

Mt. Samat was the first site we went to. I'm no stranger to Mt. Samat. My father would go every year during independence day on account of him being a war veteran. 1787 feet above sea level, Mt Samat is located in the town of Pilar, Bataan and its parent peak is Mt. Mariveles. Mt. Samat is a parasitic caldera of an extinct volcano and it is situated on the edge of the caldera.

The Dambana ng Kagitingan in Mt. Samat stands as a testament  to the Filipino soldiers' bravery in WWII. The main hall has marble flooring and an altar that serves to be a venue for high mass and stained glass backdrop. The left chamber leads to a WWII museum of artillery and artifacts of WWII. At least 78,000 exhausted and sick soldiers under the command of Maj. Gen. Edward P. King surrendered to the Japanese forces  after 4 months of fierce fighting in battle. On its peak is a Memorial Cross that has a viewing deck on its arms. Unfortunately, on the day we visited, the elevator was under repair. The picnic area was where we all shared in a sumptuous breakfast before we departed for the next stop.

Dunsulan Falls

Dunsulan Falls is located at the foot of Mt Samat. It is located on the NE of the mountain in barangay Liyang, also in the town of Pilar.This is where the streams and gulleys of mount Samat drain out. On this particular day, the rains added a larger volume of water to the drainage. The water was quite turbulent due to continuous rains the previous night so it was quite a dangerous swim. We then headed to our third stop right after a sumptuous lunch.

Las Casas Filipinas  Ciudad de Acuzar is a site where Manila's ready-to-be-demolished old homes have been given a new "lease" in its existence. Owned and operated by a man whose passion is rebuilding old homes to its former glory, Las Casas as it is commonly called is a park and bed and breakfast that restores, re-purposes and in some cases rebuilds the Bahay na Bato concept adapted by Filipino builders during colonial times.

It has become a tourist attraction that features some on the country's stateliest mansions that would have ended up in a pile heap. Thanks to Manny Acuzar's vision, these homes were dismantled brick by brick, plank by plank and re-located in a coastal area in Bagac, Bataan.

Hotel Oriente

Day tours are arranged in such a way that guests are led on a tour of the most noteworthy restored homes by tour guides dressed in period costume. Some weddings are held in Las Casas for a very picturesque and unforgettable ceremony.

Alberto Mansion

Some homes are let out for wedding parties, weekend getaways, corporate gatherings and events. Costs vary according to the historical relevance and grandeur of the buildings. After a long day of going around the compound, one can either have a dip in the pool or take a dip in Bagac's coastline fronting the Las Casas Complex. If a day trip doesn't do it for you, you can stay for the week end... or longer...

Casa Byzantina