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Sunday, February 12, 2017

NAKAKAIN BA ANG HERITAGE?

Jose Benigno Salvador distributing leaflets
*photo by Giovanni Roan, leaflet design by Jhon Gorme

When an "honorable mayor asks a question like the title above, you kinda get the idea the he has no qualms about destroying heritage... Obviously, it means little or absolutely nothing to him the the word "heritage" covers a wide scope: both tangible and intangible.

AHP and Pamanlahi with Mesdames Ching de las Alas Montinola, Menchu de las Alas Concepcion
*published in Manila Bulletin, 12 -February, 2017; courtesy of Alice de Vera Vasquez

The idea that heritage equates to being able to feed a hungry constituency has absolutely no bearing in preserving what shapes and molds our identity. It is simply non sequitur! The Dakila'ng Pamana ng Lahi hand in hand with the Advocates for Heritage Preservation just this past weekend (11-February-2017) staged another silent protest on the demolition of the Rizal Memorial Sports Complex. This is the second one which again was covered by media and attended by no less than the family of the Antonio de las Alas (whom President Manuel L. Quezon put to the task of building the sports Complex); Ching de las Alas Montinola and Menchu de las Alas Concepcion. Former Senator Freddie Webb was also on hand as a show of support for our cause.

Sports analyst Chino Trinidad interviewing the Freddie Webb
*photo by Giovanni Roan
I could go on and on re. the important role the Rizal Memorial Sports Complex has played ever since it was built in 1938. From the time it was erected, it has hosted the Far East Games, The Asian Games, local leagues like the NCCA, UAAP, MICAA, PALARO'NG PAMBANSA. In its hallowed diamond, baseball great Babe Ruth played. Philippine Olympians honed their skill in its gyms and athletes' quarters. There's just too many brilliant Philippine sportsmen and women who have literally carved a niche in international arenas to achieve sports immortality. The latest of which is Hidilyn Diaz; Silver Medalist in the recent Rio Olympics. At the tender age of eleven, Hidilyn honed her skill in weight lifting until she achieved what no other man has in weight lifting - and Hidilyn in a WOMAN!

Ernie Manio of ABS CBN interviewing Olympian and basketball great Fredie Webb
*photo by Giovanni Roan
In a situation where the destruction of a heritage building not just affects a community around it but tugs at the heart strings of the men and women who moved heaven and earth to build it; of the athletes who have sacrificed moving out of hearth and home to train endlessly in its facilities (limited and out moded as it may be); of Aling Marga, a side-walk vendor who has spent decades eking out a living by selling soda and snacks to sports fans who have shrieked and shouted for their teams in every game for years; shouldn't the local government at least consult them?

Freddie Webb greets Aling Marga, softdrink vendor forever and Mr. Webb's fan since his YCO playing days

I balk at the proposal that another mall be built at this 10+ hectare site! Personally, I'm affected by its proposed demolition! Every summer when I was a kid, my uncle would take me and my cousins to learn to play tennis there. The all-time tennis great Felicisimo Ampon gave me lessons at the clay courts. I learned to swim in the pool. I watched the asian volleyball powerhouses spike their way to victory there. I began weight training with Jojo Lastimosa, Harmon and Gerry Codinera, Tatang and Lydia de Vega, Elma Muros while they were housed in RMSC.  I even competed in high school volleyball in the PAVA games in RMSC. So for me, forget about whether heritage is edible! I may not be a sports luminary, but I sure as heck watched, whistled, worked out, and wheedled my may out of my personal issues in that complex!!! I TOO, THEREFORE, HAVE A STAKE IN WHAT THE LOCAL GOVERNMENT WANTS TO DO WITH IT!

RMSC Baseball stadium
*photo by Ma. Lilibeth Benosa

This time, however, I am not alone. The AHP and PAMANLAHI, (at the risk of being tagged as a yellow faction  by another ersatz heritage conservation group) have taken up the cudgels for the countless individuals who have found no voice or have been cowered into submission by puppet councilors who have approved without opposition the sale of the RMSC. Some members have continued to do silent protests to block the demolition. Members of AHP from all walks of life and all ages have showed up to drum up support for this cause.  

Here's a lot of good reasons to stop the demolition

As of this writing, the sale of RMSC to the Razon group has been suspended. But I wouldn't rest just yet. Who knows what the LGU can do under cover of darkness? The list just goes on and on: Torre de Manila, Admiral Hotel, Army-Navy Club... This issue hasn't been settled yet and the honorable mayor has recently approved a project to reclaim Manila Bay for an entertainment complex. Does the DENR know about this? Paging DENR Sec. GINA LOPEZ!!!!

AHP Members passionate about heritage preservation
*photo by Lloyd Anthony Nuestro Rafols


Thursday, February 9, 2017

PURE BLISS IN PALAWAN


Sabang Beach
I've been to Palawan many times over. I never get tired of going there. Each visit I take allows me to open my eyes with wonder. This visit took nine days going to and re-visiting some areas and discovering newly developed ones that have sprung up quite recently. So despite being a tourist "must see", Palawan seems to re-invent itself. 
Sheridan Resort and Spa
Extensive travel to Palawan can cost a hefty amount. It's not because the province has become a tourist trap, it's just the topography and geographical location lends itself to long drives and boat rides that enhance the experience of exploration. This time around it was the northern part that I went to visit. I wasn't alone. I was guiding for four Israeli VIPs.                 
Sheridan Resort and Spa
DAY 1
The 45 minute plane ride made touchdown by dusk. A heavy dinner at Ka Lui's is de rigeur if you're in Puerto Princesa (Palawan's capital). It's comforting to know the famed restaurant still offers great cuisine and fresh seafood. The standard has been maintained. I can not help but notice the city is no longer the quaint little city of three years ago. Yes, there are now malls aside from the obligatory bars that cater to foreign visitors... and taxi cabs too. A van took us directly to Sheridan Resort and  Spa in Sabang. Today was the first day of our trip. The roads have been well maintained but the solar lamps that used to line the road were not working. Thank God for bright headlights!

poolside
DAY 2
I woke up to a glorious morning so I lost no time walking around the familiar Sabang Beach. Still clean and picturesque, Sabang now is a bustling town with restaurants and B&Bs, lots of souvenir shops, ambulant vendors, an ukay-ukay (pre-loved goods). Last time I was there, there were 2 hotels and a few houses for home-stay. Not anymore! Sheridan and Daluyon can be a bit pricey so if you're on a budget I would recommend you stay in Balay-Balay. An air-conditioned room costs (Pesos) 1,600.00/night/pax while a fan room costs half the price. Good enough for two people and it has its own bathroom. 
lobby
I stocked up on snacks and cold water for guests, myself and the driver. These long distances can make one hungry and you never know when the next sari-sari store will come along. No. there are no no convenience stores along the way. Sari-sari stores come few and far between. From Sabang, it would take another 3-4 hours of driving to our next stop - Port Barton. We got there by 2pm to take a boat ride to Palawan Camping Adventures midway between Port Barton and San Vicente. That boat ride was a good half hour still.

Port Barton
More than ten years ago, my friends and I stayed in Port Barton. At most, there were two resorts. The entire stretch of beach was ours to play around in. The place we stayed in was called Swissipini owned by an enterprising lady named Flora. Now, Port Barton is a bustling town. The wide stretch of beach has given way to B&Bs, resorts, restaurants and karaoke bars. Still a nice place to visit but forget peace and tranquility here. You'll find those in Thelma and Toby's. We arrived around three in the afternoon.We had to pay for environment tax prior to the boat ride (P50.00/pax). We were welcomed by the resort's owner Toby ( a Canadian citizen married to a Filipina from Palawan) Thelma.
My guests at  Port Barton
After the welcome drinks and small talk, we were shown our accommodations. We had time to get settled and were told that dinner was at 7:00pm.The meal was fresh seafood, rice, salad, laing (taro leaves in coconut cream, and fresh fruit for dessert. Before you know it the sound of the waves along the shore and the balmy winds got me all sleepy. By nine pm, I turned in for the night.

Thelma and Toby's
DAY 3
I was up at dawn to the sound of waves. The wind had brought the waves crashing to shore at night and in the morning, it was calm and peaceful. I was at the beach way before the other guests were. The good thing about the Thelma and Toby's operation is that it's run by the couple and their staff (whose almost family). Grace is the all-around supervisor, accountant, cashier, et.al. She is god daughter to Thelma. In the summer Thelma and Toby's children are hands on at their resort. Two of their kids are in Canada while the youngest is in college at Puerto Princesa. Toby and Thelma decided to purchase the 5 hectare property when they got married and started working on the resort while the family was growing. 
Thelma and Toby's (Palawan Camping Adventures
The resort has 10 tents and three cottages. It's not your typical campsite. It's glamping at its best! Each tent has its own fire pit. you gotta pay 50.00 for firewwood though. But that's plenty of warmth at night and it drives away mosquitoes. At (pesos) 1,600.00/pax/night, it's pretty reasonable considering you get full board plus use of the facilities. The water is abundant, and even if the bathrooms are shared, it is always clean and well stocked with tissue paper. The meals are always fresh catch of the day ranging from Giant Trevalli to Yellow fin Tuna and shrimp. The guests get a treat when the staff clamber up the trees to fetch young coconut. You can kayak to a waterfall in the adjacent cove and the locals are always willing to welcome you to that area. A small donation won't even wreck your budget.

My accommodations at Palawan Camping Adventure
Chatting with Toby over breakfast is a great fun. He has this "awww shuchks" vibe about him and he's always up for good conversation. The days go by slowly over this tranquil spot on earth but not one of the guests can be heard complaining. Actually, quite a lot want to extend their stay. It's just beautiful out there. Good reviews on trip advisor keep the guests coming. Toby wants to keep the resort the way it is though. No need to expand operations. All one needs to do is get an online reservation.
Sunset at Palawan Camping Adventures
Day 4
It was time to leave for Taytay as the guests were booked for 1D/2N in Apulit. I made arrangements to have the boat drop us off at San Vicente, which was the next town. A bigger one than Port Barton! It would have meant a shorter drive to Taytay plus the roads are better. Nonetheless, the  drive is another 3-4 hours. We stopped midway for snacks at Lorna's where for 750 pesos, all five of us had a heavy snack of pork nilaga, menudo adobo chicken. plus drinks.
Sala de Apulit
We reached Taytay by noon and had lunch at Pem's Pension house two blocks from the Sala de Apulit. What used to be known as Club Noah Isabel was acquired by the Ayala Group and they decided to use the name of the island. A lot pricey but still in great demand. Those cabins in the water attract a lot of foreign tourists. 
Cabin 20 at Pems Pension House
I on the other hand, stayed in Taytay and found my lodging at Pems Pension House. At (pesos) 1,500.00/night I had an air-conditioned cottage with TV to myself with a great view of Fuerza Sta. Isabel. This fort was completed in 1738 after the Spaniards decided to stay in the area when it was discovered by the survivors of Magellan's fleet. After Magellan's soldiers were massacred by Lapu-Lapu's men, the survivors fled Mactan and were said to have been pursued by the Muslims. They ended up in the northern tip of Palawan and took Taytay's local King and Queen as hostage demanding they be given food and supplies so they could sail to the Moluccas strait where they could seek help from the Portuguese sailing in the area. They started building the fort to protect themselves and stayed when the Philippines was colonized. The Fuerza de Sta. Isabel stands as a mute witness to Spanish colonization in a least likely Spanish ruled area.

Fuerza de Sta. Isabel, Taytay, Palawan
Last order prior to the kitchen closing was at eight p.m. Ms. Jen (whom I had met earlier in the day), the supervisor, came knocking at my door to asked if I was interested in having dinner. I decided to order a plate of spaghetti bolognese for (pesos) 295.00. The order was a huge serving of pasta good enough for three people. Later on, I discovered that the servings in Pems Pension House was always huge

Backyard of Pems Pension house with the fort in the background
DAY 5
I woke up early morning to the sound of birds chirping in the garden. I had the day all to myself to do as I pleased. The owner of Pems, Chan Lee mentioned the Cayawyaw falls as an interesting destination 45 minutes away from the town of Taytay. I'd have gone except that I would get calls from the tour operator about changes in itinerary. It had to be cancelled. 

Pems Pension House lobby
So for the rest of the day, I explored Taytay. The fort was a  necessary stop.  and then I went around the market area to buy mosquito repellent and some other supplies. Took a million photos of the area and the church of St. Monica. I didn't venture too far out to visit the Cathedral of St Joseph as it was too far off town. The rest of my day was spent at the Pems Cafe where there was wi-fi and chatting with the locals. Pems is a nice set-up. I could have stayed in Casa Rosa but I didn't want to clamber up the hill where it was located. Too much hassle. But my stay at Pems was worth every cent. Near the coastline and the market area, and right next to Sta. Monica Church. 

Sta. Monica Church, Taytay Palawan
Chan Lee and some of the staff are exactly the right people you wanna hang out with. I also met some of the guests from all over the world and my free day was all over before I knew it. I was also getting tired from all that walking so I slept like a log after downing a huge plate of shrimp in garlic and butter.

Bar area of Pems Pension House
DAY 6
Woke up at dawn to get ready for Mass. It was a Sunday. I got dressed and ready and went next door to the church. Apparently, there was no fixed time for Mass. They start when most of the neighborhood was present in Church. At 7:00 a.m. the processional went on and an hour later, I was at the breakfast table with a plate of toast, bacon and eggs. My guests were scheduled to arrive after lunch and then we move to El Nido. 

Cadiao Island, El Nido, Palawan
The van arrived shortly after lunch and we waited at the Sala de Apulit for the guests. The boat was a little late and once we had loaded the luggage in the van, we sped off to El Nido. We reached El Nido Town around 2:00p.m. and the guests decided to have late lunch. We stopped in town so the guests can do some walking and a little exploration and they decided to eat at Angel's for their spicy chicken. El Nido  is the touristy version of Puerto Princesa. The shoreline is dotted with hotels and B&Bs and bars that cater to tourists. Name your cuisine and you'll find it in El Nido. What makes for interesting backdrop while your dining are the islands jutting out from the  West Philippine Sea.


We had to continue to drive to Tapik Beach which was a 2-hour drive along the El Nido Coast. It was dusk when we got to Tapik Beach so I checked in the guests and found my accommodations for the rest of our stay. It was a two-man tent with a thatched roof over it. It was similar to the Palawan Camping Adventures in Port Barton  but a lot smaller in scale. This is far removed from the busy street scene of El Nido and access to it is through the beach. It is quiet, secluded and off the beaten track - literally! After dinner, I decided to settle into my tent and fell asleep by 10:00pm.

my accommodation at Tapik Beach
DAY 7
I woke up at dawn to get ready for a heavy schedule. I was going to take the guests back to El Nido for an island hopping tour. The guests were to ride bikes to town and from there board a private outrigger for Island Tour A: Big Lagoon, Small Lagoon, Secret Lagoon, Shimizu Island and Seven Commando. 

Overcast skies loomed over the coastline and the bikes came 2 hours late. But when it did, the guests were so gung-ho about taking the bike ride to town. We reached El Nido near noon, boarded the boat, got the coast guard clearance and sped off. It was a rainy day but it didn't dampen the spirit of my guests. They were gobsmacked with the beauty of the limestone cliffs rising above the deep indigo water.
Small Lagoon
The small lagoon was the first stop and the three of the guests snorkeled all the way to the small lagoon. One of them stayed on the boat to watch lots of tourist renting kayaks. He spotted a lady using an oar that had dark and light streaks and decided to buy it for himself. Apparently he has a collection of oars from every country he has visited. we decided to make a pitch for it at he purchased it after haglling for (pesos) 500.00. After the rest came back from snorkelling, they were treated to lunch of tuna, crabs, shrimp, mussels, and mangoes and watermelon for dessert.

Entrance to Secret Lagoon
Next stop was Secret Lagoon. Once we reached the spot, they decide to make a swim for the secret lagoon entrance and they had to line up to get in. Our boat was easy to maneuver as we had the boat all to ourselves.we weren't sharing it with twenty other tourists. 
Shimizu Island
We made our way to Shimizu Island. Named after a man who was said to have drowned in its waters, it is rich snorkeling area. Beyond it is open sea but the water on our side was calm. Not far from from the island is Turtle island which is where sea turtles spawn and lay eggs. One would need special permission to do a night watch there.

Big Lagoon
Big Lagoon was our next stop. The lagoon is big enough for boats to sail into. There's a portion where one can walk the shallow part but watch out for bancas that go in and out of the lagoon. Those jagged limestone cliffs can be sharp. Big Lagoon is the deepest, reaching up to 80 feet. Whute tipped reef sharks can sometimes bask in its depths.
Big Lagoon

7 Commando is an inhabited island. After a long day of swimming and snorkeling the island is the last stop where tourist can get a cup of coffee prior to getting back to El Nido port. We decided to skip this one and headed back to El Nido so we can get back to Tapik Beach by nightfall. Those roads going through the different barangays are dark and unlit. The roads are now paved except for some portions where road construction is still ongoing.

Big Lagoon

DAY 8
Our stay was made memorable when one of the guests decided to go to Barangay Sibaltan to look for a guy who makes oars for canoes. I found out through the staff that the guy was employed at Tapik Beach. I asked him to go home and fetch his oars so the guest can take a good look at them. Those oars he made by hand fetched (pesos) 300.00 each. So my happy guest came back to Manila lugging 2 oars for a canoe and one for a kayak.


We made a temporary stop at the viewpoint overlooking Deep Blue beach in Barangay San Fernando in El Nido and by ten a.m. we had reached El Nido Airport for our flight back to Manila.







Tuesday, February 7, 2017

AHP VISITS NAGCARLAN, LILIW AND MAJAYJAY

Facade of San Bartolome
I've written about the churches of Nagcarlan and its underground cemetery and Majayjay and its majestic church and heritage hoes before. And when I learned that the Advocates for Heritage Preservation was going to do a walking tour of these locations I immediately signed up so I could visit these areas again.

Convento of San Bartolome
This time, I was in a van with Alice de Vera Vasquez, Bhel Asinas et.al. who all came from the Makati pick up point. Our first stop was the underground cemetery of Nagcarlan. For a first time visitor, it can be a real surprise to visit. Its historical significance and architectural uniqueness makes it a definite must see.(For details on it, see my earlier post on Nagcarlan and Majayjay)

 Dennis Roland Castanos, Dennis Geronimo Red MaristanyVica TignoMaricar AnatalioEsquierdo Bhel Asinas and Dodi Esc at Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery
We were welcomed by the tourism officers of this  town and then we were off exploring the underground chamber where the obligatory selfies and groupies were taken for posterity. After this was the short drive to the church of San Bartolome. There was a wedding/s so we had to wait for our turn to be able to meander along the church's ancient aisles. A short talk on the church's history was given by our guest who "made extensive studies of all the churches in southern Luzon." I managed to reach the belfry and have my photo taken. Vilma Santos' film Kampanera'ng Kuba (Hunchbacked Bellringer) was filmed here. After which we boarded our respective vans to have lunch in Liliw. Again, you must read an older post on this blog site if you wish to know more on Liliw.

channeling my inner "Kampanera'ng Kuba"

Prior to lunch, we stopped at the San Juan Church of of Liliw where we were met by a young lad who was in charge of the museum. This was a treat for me. Everytime I visited Liliw, the museum was always closed. Finally, this time I got to see the museum's content. I wasn't much but there was a vignette of Christ's baptism by John and another vignette of St. John's eventual demise. A gruesome scenario of the saint's beheading.  

a gruesome beheading

with Faviola Torres, Enrico Brion Gapangada and Jigs Medina

Lunch would have been a culinary treat at Bahay na Puti except that we had to wait for more than an hour for our order to be set at the table. Apparently, the chef was overwhelmed by the size of our group. This isn't the biggest AHP gathering, mind you. I guess they were not prepared for the volume of diners this time around. We then meandered the streets of Liliw to view some heritage homes but were not able to go in. Shopping then, became the main agenda.

,Rheeza Santiago HernandezDennis Geronimo Red Maristany,Jose Benigno Salvador, Arwin Arca Arceo, Blanquita Pimentel Hernandez, Yitte P Hernandez.
Desspite of the Town Hall being closed on a Saturday, we were allowed entry by the caretaker. Unfortunately, I noticed that the mural on the second floor by Amorsolo was no longer there. Apparently, it had been taken down for "restoration". I hope it doesn't end up in someone else's home...

Liliw Municipal Hall
Finally, it was time to visit Majayjay. The church and its surroundings look the same. Unfortunately, the Lyceo was closed off to the public as there were no classes. I was not able to show them the original beam that had the date 1898 carved into it. A part of the roof was blown away during the storm Pedring. Luckily, part of the roof was kept intact. The gnarled trees of plumeria right outside the side entrance planted and tendered lovingly by the priests at the time of the church construction remain sentries to the faithful who go through the arched doorway.

Plumeria trees at the side entrance

Retablo of San Gregorio Magno
We then visited the Ermita, a smaller church which houses the original painted image of Nstra. Sra, de Porteria. The church now is kept and maintained by a group of volunteers who open the gates for visitors interested in seeing its interiors. The belfry was said to be very fragile and in danger of crumbling. A serious retrofitting of the structure is in tall order.

The Ermita of Majayjay
Like all AHP visits, this one came to an end by sundown. The AHP family came home, sated, satisfied and having more knowledge of the country's best known secrets...

Nstra. Sra. de Porteria






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