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Tuesday, April 9, 2019

THE GUNS ARE SILENT



I was very fortunate to have been invited to a very special trip this past weekend (6 -7 April, to be exact). You see, my father and uncles were veterans who fought in World War II. When I was a little boy, I would go to Bataan and Corregidor with my father to commemorate Araw ng Kagitingan. I tagged along for a free ride and enjoyed going around the ship. It was a great adventure, but the significance of it was lost on me.

Navy in Gala uniform

When the Titos N Titas invited me to join them on this trip, I naturally jumped at the opportunity to be a part of the journey. This time, I had come full circle! My father had passed on in 1988 at ripe old age of  seventy. That means that during the Japanese occupation in 1941 my father was at the prime of his youth at 23 years old. This celebration was a very sentimental one for me. I would not have missed it for anything!
Members of the veterans 
We were a group of thirty five people who confirmed our desire to join at least three contingents of Philippine Veterans and their families that were to travel from Sangley Point in Cavite City to Corregidor island - WWII's Last Stand! The fiercest and most brutal fighting for our sovereignty happened here. I can only cringe in horror as my father and uncles related their story of torture and suffering at the hands of the Japanese Kempeitai. I joined the trip because it was my sentimental journey in honoring their memory.

BRP Bacolod City - LS 550

There were two pick up points for our group: one was in Centris for those coming from Quezon City, the other one that I was in would meet in Makati/EDSA. By two in the afternoon, we were on our way to Cavite City. There were fourteen people in our van and we made our way to Sangley Point in about an hour.  We made a quick side trip to a close relative of Ron and Lea Caliboso, who in eagerness to entertain us, prepared food a day before the said trip. Feny had to store the local delicacies in her fridge and shared the pancit to her neighbors lest it got spoiled. So when we arrived at her home, we were surprised at the generous spread of food she prepared for us. There was Samala's kakanin and slices of watermelon and pineapple,ice cream,  soda and pancit which we devoured with gusto. After such a heavy merienda, we then motored a few blocks down to the pier to board the BRP Bacolod City (LS-550) that was to take us to the island overnight.

the circle of 35 on board the ship
I was wondering why the call time was so early in spite of an ETD that was past midnight. I should have known that the registration of about a thousand and five hundred pax would indeed cause some form of delay. Busloads of contingents arrived from the south. Red Cross volunteers and health workers from Cavite City along with their ambulances were on call. SAF members, enlisted men, plebes, a military brass band, silent drill members participating in the ceremony were present in the registration area for the ship's manifest. The bedlam was only temporary. Actually, I was thankful we did arrive early as we got first dibs on our area in the ship. It was better than being at the back of the ship's ramp where there was no shelter. People were still arriving until nine o'clock in the evening. The long wait allowed us to settle down and put our stuff together. There was plenty of time for us to explore the other areas of the military camp. The staff and personnel were very friendly and accommodating. By two a.m., the sirens blew and the announcements were made for last boarding and we were on our way at sea.

view  from the port side while docking on the North side of  Corregidor

At daybreak, the ship had started to slow down and a glorious shoreline that was Corregidor's north shore welcomed the ship's arrival. Corregidor a.k.a. as The Rock, is under the jurisdiction of the province of Cavite City in the province of Cavite. It sits strategically at the mouth of Manila Bay dividing the entrance to the bay into the North and South channels. It is about 6.5 km long and 2 km at its widest part. The total land area is about 900 hectares and its highest elevation is about 590 ft above sea level. Corregidor island and four other smaller islands have always been heavily defended by colonizers as it is a sentry way in protecting the city of Manila from its invaders. The Cavite Tourism Council gathered our contingent into two coasters to take us around the tadpole shaped island and view its historic sites.

before disembarking
Corregidor Island is divided into four areas: Tailside, Bottomside, Middleside and Topside. The Tailside is where the air strip to the island was constructed in the 1920's. Kindley Field is named after an American aviator of the US Army Air Corps. The Bottomside, on the other hand, is where the army docks are located and also the part that connects the Tailside to the rest of the larger portions of the island. East of the Bottomside is the Malinta Hill which separates the bottomside from the Tailside. 

Middleside Barracks
Our first stop was the Middleside Barracks where the US built a two story complex of quarters for officers and enlisted men. There were facilities for a hospital for enlisted and non enlisted personnel, a PX, and two schoolhouses: one for Filipino and another for American schoolchildren. What stands on the spot now is a bleak reminder of the ravages of war: twisted steel and crumbling walls of what might have been a glorious American colonial style building. 

Battery Way
We then proceeded to Battery Way. Built into a concrete fortified pit, the battery is significant as the four guns within its radius were the last guns to fire under heavy bombardment by the Japanese forces. Seventy percent of gunnery personnel had been reduced to casualty. Major William Massello, Jr. under whose command were inflicting heavy damage on the Japanese attackers had been wounded and held on to one of the guns as its breach block froze aftrer eleven straight hours of use. He was captured and imprisoned by Japanese forces and sent to a hell ship that brought prisoners of war to Yokohama, Japan. Walter "Pinch" Kwiecinski was the last Sargeant to fire the last gun. They managed a direct hit on a Japanese landing craft. but the battle of Corregidor was lost. He also became a POW and was shipped off along with the others.

*Group photo by Annie Grace Nicandro Obeya

The next stop was at Battery Hearn which sits on a high promontory on the Topside. The two guns could do a 360 degree turn on that elevation ready to fire at invading ships at any time.Unfortunately, because both Smith Guns had a circular base that served as perfect bulls eye target, both fell easily from airborne fire by Japanese Pilots. Bombs decommissioned these guns that stood no chance. Heavy bombardment caused an explosion in the battery and the underground armory. Battery Hearn is named after Brig. Gen. Clint C. Hearn who commanded the Harbor defenses of Manila Bay and Subic in 1919.
the Lighthouse
The next stop was the Topside. We were deposited at the Light house area where we were allowed to meander along the small stores and souvenir shops. The light house is the second oldest light house built in the country (the oldest being the farola in Tondo, Manila) dating back to 1853 after the recommendation of Governor Pascual Enrile de Alcedo. It directed ships towards the entrance of Manila Bay guiding said ships to the Port of Manila. By the time the Americans settled in the country the light house had fallen into neglect and disrepair. A directive to improve the system had been put into effect around 1903 with the newly established Bureau of Coast Guard and Coast Guard. They added three more buildings flanking the lighthouse that served as the quarters for the light house operators, a kitchen and latrines. By 1908, Corregidor Island became a military installation that was known as Fort Mills.


the Peace Dome
A short walk down a cemented path brought us to a series of buildings that formed the main complex of Corregidor Island. I immediately proceeded to the Peace Dome that immortalized the fallen from WWII. At exactly 12 noon, the sunlight pierces through the dome and lights up the center of the circular marble altar. further down the walk is a series of marble panels that detail the  campaigns the Americans fought along with the Filipinos and other nationalities in the Pacific. The fighting in the island was one of the most intense in the world and Filipino and American resistance against the Japanese was so concentrated, it delayed the further progress of the Japanese forces to the rest of Southeast Asia and Australia for another four to six months.

the Eternal Flame of Freedom

Obligatory photos were taken at the Eternal Flame of Freedom art installation overlooking the ocean on the south side. The twelve meter structure made of Corten Steel was designed by artist Aritides Dimetrios and is supposed to symbolize the struggles of Americans and Filipinos and the ideals for freedom for future generations. Solar lamps illuminate the installation at night.

Arlene Cejar posing for a rear view of Cine Corregidor 

Retracing our steps on the right side, one sees the rear part of Cine Corregidor. The last movie screened on the cinema before its destruction was Gone With The Wind and across it is the Pacific War Memorial Museum. The museum is a veritable treasure trove of  war memorabilia: found objects, war medals, guns and ammunition, old photos of an era that espoused courage and freedom. It was a very moving experience. The last time I felt that way was when I went to Hiroshima Peace Dome and Museum. The experience that devastated Japan after the American retaliation and forced them to surrender to the Americans.

Mile Long Barracks

The ruins of the Mile Long Barracks complex still stands as imposing as ever. The three storey structure was said to house the soldiers on the Topside of the island. Mc Arthur was believed to have had his office in the edifice as well as his quarters here. Constructed to be hurricane proof, the former barracks was believed to be only a third of a mile long. However, the soldiers would walk its three floors and that equaled 1,520 feet. Ergo, the monicker stuck. 

Erlie Querubin on the steps of the Bachelor Officers Quarters
The parade grounds and nine hole golf course was in this level fronting the the cinema and the Bachelor Officers Quarters. along the pathways are glorious trees and greenery and a smattering of  memorials to the bold servicemen who gave up their lives in pursuit of freedom. This area is also where the tracks of the electric operated tramway ends on that portion of the island which winds down to Malinta Tunnel.

Titos N' Titas after brunch on a Sunday
Lorcha Dock

The coaster collected us and we went back down to the Bottomside area by the Lorcha Dock where Gen. Douglas McArthur left the island en route to Australia and back to the US to plan his return to the Philippines to liberate us from Japan. It was brunch when we got down to Mc Arthur Cafe. Not a bad idea to have something to eat. At P350.00/pax, one can have a fill of rice and meat and veggies and chicken with drinks to boot. Close by is the San Jose Church, a quaint little church slightly hidden by lush greenery and lots of trees. Apparently, the church had been upgraded from its original wooden structure and is said to have served its spiritual purpose for the residents of Bgy. San Jose and soldiers in the area. The water in this area was clear but one can see traces of plastic and some discards perhaps brought in by the tides. My one regret was not being able to swim in the ocean owing to an early departure for Sangley Point slated at two p.m. Once we got back to the ship, the captain announced that departure was moved to four p.m. 

San Jose Church

I was nestled in my area of the ship so I had no compulsion to move and go back for a swim. We bided our time on board the ship. And then, the party began! The Philippine Navy Seabees is a band composed of enlisted men that just loves to play music. They entertained us with songs ranging from standards, Original Pilipino Music, Pinoy Rock, disco and folk. Their piece d' resistance was when someone requested for them to sing Bohemian Rhapsody by Queen.  Feigning unpreparedness at first, the supposedly hesitant members of the band broke out into the opening lyrics in a melodious harmony and went on to rock the stage with high pitched Freddy Mercury chorus of soloist and second voices. By the third set of songs, members of my group and a random group of women and even senior citizens were dancing the hot, sticky afternoon away, unmindful of the sweat and stifling heat.
The Philippine Navy Seabees

Before we knew it, the sun had started to set and the cool afternoon breeze started to flow. pretty soon we were docking at the pier of Sangley Point. We then proceeded to Chef Foo restaurant in Cavite City for a hot meal and then it was time to head home.


The guns are silent now... My journey was complete! 

I'd like to express my sincerest thanks to the local government of Cavite, the Philippine Navy,  the Cavite City Tourism Council, Bhel Asinas Galvez Esquierdo for laying down the ground work for three straight months without expecting anything in return, Mabelle Tenorio for arranging the logistics of transport and food, Ms Fenny who welcomed us into her cozy home, Ronel and Lea Caliboso for their van support and to the fun and endearing company of the other participants: Emman dela Pena, Wanda Ole of Iloilo and Bacolod, respectively; Dodi Escartin, Lin Deres, Corazon Victoria, Annie Grace Nicandro Obeya, Jorge Ferrer, Edwin de Guzman, Willy Bas, Allan Pardilla Martinez, Jezreel Gonzalez JR Nino Patao, Pie Burwell, Arlene Cejar, Tim Delez, Fritzie Ramos, Aisah Basuel, Ness Sembrero, Elisha Rico, Toppie Torres, Amy Cristobal, Emy Dulay, Deck Pantia, Dennis Roland S. Castanos, Mary Ann and Noel Panaligan, Febe Sevilla, Leah Amante Villapando, Erlie Querubin, Faviola Torres Hidalgo. This would not have been as much fun without you there...








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