PANGIL, PAKIL and PAETE

Nstra. Sra. de la Natividad church with Lloyd Anthony Nuestro Rafols, Pheeyah Salones and Maricar Anatalio. Photo by Pheeyah Salones

I have written about these three municipalities in the southern part of  the province of Laguna but on this visit, I was with the Advocates for Heritage Preservation (AHP) family. What makes this  trip interesting is that we went by way of Antipolo, passing through the towns of Tanay, Baras, Pililla ad the other towns bordering the northeastern side of Laguna de Bay.

Bas relief on the Facade

The first stop was at Pangil, Laguna. Not a lot has been written about this small, sleepy town just at the outskirts of the junction leading to more popular towns of Pakil and Paete. Pangil, translated in English, literally means fang. The municipality sits on a land projection that juts out towards Laguna lake. It occupies the northeastern side at he foothills of the southern tip of the Sierra Madre mountain range. However, this monicker may not always be the most reliable origin of its name. Some indicators point out the fact that in pre-colonial times, the ruler of the area was named Gat Paguil. Another story indicates its inhabitants were known as Panguilagan. 

Bernard Manimbo, Lorenzo Mateos, Rheeza Santiago Hernandez, Marichelle A. Santos, Dennis Roland S. Castanos

Two Franciscan friars, Fr. Juan de Placencia and Diego de Oropesa were notably given permission by the Spanish government to establish the early settlement in Panguil. They  wanted to establish a church in the area  as its micro-climate, clean rivers and waterways and other natural resources were ideal for both inhabitants and missionaries. They built a church dedicated to the Nuestra Senora de Natividad built around the 1700's. Even books on church history have very little information on this church. A monument to Prince Charles of Spain marks the corner buttress where the belfry stands. Part of urban legend relates the story that Prince Charles of Spain stayed in the convent for four years to live amongst the locals. When he left the municipality, he went back to Spain and ascended the throne as King Charles IV (another statue of his more mature self stand in Plaza Roma in Intramuros).

Pangil Church

On the day of our visit, we viewed the church and its environs figuring which parts were still original from the time it was built. It was bright and airy and the altar obviously had been replaced with a new one. Some bas relief were still evident in the few remaining frames hanging on the walls. I even attempted to climb the  belfry but had second thoughts as part of the stairwell had probably collapsed and in its place is a steel ladder precariously perched on top of the cut off stairwell. That being said, I was unable to photograph the bells. 

St Peter Alcantara church, Pakil, Laguna

We then proceeded to Pakil (see my older post on both Pakil and Paete). It will take normally less than five minutes as all the driver has to do is cross the junction and drive up to the gem of a church dedicated to St. Peter of Alcantara. Built in 1676 by Father Francisco Barajas (Franciscan) and destroyed by fire in a matter of nine years, Rebuilt in 1767 and constantly retouched and added on by successive parish priests. In 1959 Arch. Joseph Regan changed the altar to marble in 1959 and consecrated by Bishop Alejandro Olaila. It eventually became the shrine of  Nstra. Sra. delos Dolores de Turumba (Our Lady of Sorrows of Turumba). They have, according to records, the longest Marian celebration which lasts for nine weeks starting from Ash Wednesday in which the image of our Lady is led out in a procession every Wednesday thereafter...Pakil is located 115km from Manila and 90km from Tanay, Rizal.

Nstra. Sra. de las Dolores de Turumba icon

Finally, we reach Paete before lunch ( again, check my older posts re. Paete). The church of Saint James holds a special place in my heart. I did spend summers in the area with my cousins. Holy Week is special in Paete. The town takes its name from Paet (chisel).As you can guess, their main trade is carving. This town is home to famous carvers and painters. Something about Paete's location, climate and topography lends its influence to the art and culture of its people which is very evident in its church. Notable are the collaborative works of its local artists in carving tableaus of biblical scenes and paintings on heaven and hell and the double exposure murals of St. Christopher in which each version is the exact depiction except for the rendition of the saint done in Indio and Mestizo styles. a short walk along the main road leads one to curio shops, furniture stores, papier mache workshops and novelty items. If you get hungry, the food at Bengas restaurant at the end of the road is tasty and very affordable. For an entire meal for four, the bill came out to a total amount of 420.00 pesos. It may take a while for your order but it's worth the wait.

St. James church, Paete, Laguna