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Thursday, May 3, 2018

BARONS OF BACOLOD AND ILOILO (2/4)


I woke up ahead of my alarm to the sound of chirping birds. Daylight was creeping in as I enjoyed my morning coffee in the cabin 4-D of Mambukal Resort. I just  stepped out to see the avian life amongst the trees when I remembered the evening commentary on the bus that there was a population of bats in the area. I was not disappointed. There were an inordinate amount of bats flying in to roost for the day. It was amazing to watch so I ran in again to fetch my camera and photograph them. I managed to take some snapshots of flying foxes and other species of bats. Apparently there are 4: golden mantled, common island, large flying fox and the endangered golden-crowned flying fox. I also took photos of surrounding areas  and checked out the restaurants for my breakfast. I was going to check out the falls when I bumped into the ladies who were also on their way to see it.

There are seven stops to the summit of the falls, the last one being the most spectacular. The trek was mild and the way was clearly marked out. There were too many photo ops along the way that when we reached the first stage of the falls, it was time to head back to base camp so we won't be late for the 8:30 a.m. call time. The cottage we stayed in was clean and well-ventilated. It had abundant water supply and the bathroom was neat and in working order.The sprawling complex has a total of 23.6 hectares and abundant wildlife to enjoy. Among the facilities are a buttterfly garden, hot mineral baths, a spa, zip line, boating lagoon, wall-climbing, pool, convention hall, canopy walk, villas, cottages and Ishiwata bath house. Mambukal Resort is the gateway to Mt. Kanlaon. I think a second visit is in order...

People have to remember that when they are part of a tour group, they are answerable for any delays they cause while on the trip. That should be taught to millenials. I go by the rule that if you're on time, you're already late! So we waited for more than half an hour to leave because three young men failed to wake up early and pack up ahead of call time. That further delayed our trip to the next stop thus affecting the schedule for the entire day.

We made a stop at Tan Juan Araneta house  in Bago City.  The home is now a general  museum run by the local government of Bago City. Famed as the home of General Araneta whose claim to fame is deluding the Spanish forces to surrender to him using only makeshift canons and 2 guns... that was a stroke of genius! He reclaimed the house for his  family  of twelve to live in until his death in 1924. The family was forced to abandon the house again with the arrival of the Japanese Kempeitai who used it as their headquarters. After WWII, the heirs no longer wanted to stay in the house and the local government made use of it at first as the Bago High School in 1947. By 1972, the Araneta family donated the property to the local government unit. By 1982 restoration had begun with the aid of the National Historical Institue. And in 1991 the museum was underway. It now has different sections from war memorabilia, home implements and furnishings, sugar production and an effigy of a babaylan (shaman).


Our next stop was at the Panaad Stadium in  Bacolod City. Apparently, we arrived a few days late for the Panaad Festival. Thank goodness! Otherwise we would not have been able to see the Kalamay sa Bacolod mini museum. The one stop museum  had a petite collection of memorabilia that deals with the production of sugar: its painstaking, labor-intensive production. It also has a section of dolls in indigenous attire. One was created by artist Solomon Saprid. Then we headed for lunch.

Eron's Cansi House is an unpretentious hole-in-the-wall restaurant that serves a variety of dishes for lunch fare. But since we replied to the query of what we wanted to eat... we wanted cansi for lunch. They brought us here because this was the best place to experience it. We ordered a few side dishes but the focus was the savory thick broth that came with bone marrow and fall off the bone meaty goodness of  cansi. The souring agent for the soup is an endemic ingredient called batwan. It's a green bulb that is boiled together with the thick broth and the bone-in leg and shank of beef. It's their Ilonggo version of sinigang including the gelatinous marrow that melts in your mouth. Honestly, if they didn't serve anything else,  the broth on the rice could save my lunch hunger pangs. So good!!

The Capitol of Negros Occidental is a neo-classic style building following Daniel Burnham's Beaux Art style that had been extended over the decades.  Corinthian columns  support a parapet that has two caryatid figures on each corner along the front colonnade. The facade faces a wading pool in the plaza that is bounded by Filipinized figures done by Guillermo Tolentino.  The provincial capitol tourism office is on the right wing annex of the building. The multi-purpose/social hall is on the second floor of the main building. 


Pressed for time due to our delayed schedule we were given  10 minutes to visit and document the San Sebastian Cathedral in Bacolod City. The church was originally a small chapel built in 1876. The present structure was built upon the initiative of Fr, Mauricio Ferrerro using Guimaras Island corral stone and inaugurated by Fr Manuel Cuenca in 1882.On the 23rd of June, 1933 it was made a cathedral. Msgr. Casimiro Lladoc repaired and improved the church in 1936. to mark the Cathedral's centenary, the church bells were brought down from the belfry and placed on the right side of the church patio in 1976.  Beside it is the Archbishop's Palace started in 1830 by Fr. Julian Gonzaga but was completed only in 1890. It was a refuge of Spanish military and civil officials during the revolution. It faces a small park with a Band Stand in the center. the church property line runs along the center of the park. The crown along the roof of the band stand has the names of  important classical composers. The band stand is adorned in classical black and white contrasting tiles. Fountains have suggestive sensual figures representing male and female genitalia.


By four in the afternoon we were at the port and ready to board a ferry to Iloilo.  Luckily the weather was cooperative and it was an hour and a half of smooth sailing from the Bacolod port to Iloilo. We saw Rocca Encantada but it was too far for any discernible photo from my camera. When we disembarked from the fast craft, the jeepney we rode in struck a bargain with us for a fifty peso/ pax fare from the port to our Go Hotel destination and another ride from the hotel to  our dinner at Kamalig at Atria Ayala. Dinner was superb as usual...I swear I must have gained 5 more pounds from eating on this trip. Tita Dodi Escartin joined us for dinner. She was in Iloilo attending to her father who was sick at the time.

Kamalig Restaurant at Atria Ayala (photo by Pheeyah Salones)

We were so full after dinner, we decided to burn off some calories with a stroll at the Esplanade along the mangroves of  the Iloilo river. The air was barely blowing and when it did, it was a warm night. Fitness enthusiasts were jogging or speed walking along the Esplanade.  It was also nearing the weekend so families were  strolling out at night.It's interesting to see new urban development in an old city but done right. Imagine doing an esplanade along the Pasig River... that would be a 10 mile marathon. Why can't the metropolis pool their resources together to build a jogging path like this?

Some members decided to end their walk at the Esplanade and took rides to their respective hotels. Tita Dodi left her car at Atria and we walked back with her. We then decided to have after dinner coffee at  Madge Cafe at Atria. The staff were friendly and informative. They knew their product and helped us decide what drinks to order. After the drinks, Tita Dodi decided to take us on a night tour of the city. It was a nice drive... no traffic! But it was either I was too tired or my glasses were dirty or that the surroundings were too dark. I could barely make out the palatial homes outlines against a dark street. After that, Tita Dodi dropped us off at our hotels to rest for the night.


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