SAN PABLO SECOND TIME AROUND

Just when you think San Pablo has only its resorts and seven lakes to offer its visitors, you'd be gob-smacked to know the province has hidden gems kept for the die-hard explorers. A group of us friends went to San Pablo on a whim. We got wind our friend and San Pablo resident, Mark Fule finished construction of his home in Bgy. Putol. And though his house was undergoing its finishing phase, close friends organized an informal house-warming and pot-luck to celebrate his birthday to boot.

We all pooled resources to hire vans and bring food to Mark's home as the designated lunch venue. Mark and Earl Gamboa and Tito Naning knocked heads to further enhance the experience by adding stops to the itinerary. Erico Brion Gapangada also  pitched in with dessert. Mike Asinas sent an invite to visit his  Bahay na Bato (Spanish era style) home/s for merienda (afternoon snack) adding that it would be nice for his guests to be in simple Filipiniana attire. Not one to let the opportunity pass, I donned a mint green guayabera, panama hat and checkered pants. I thought I was the only one to play dress-up. The "momshies" lugged their own Filipino outfits for the chance to  have their photos taken as well.

We left a little later than usual and arrived at our breakfast stop at Casa San Pablo. We got lost along the way trying to find a short cut but found it as we turned back to the highway. We were warmly welcomed by ms Anne Alcantara at the dining area of the resort. It's at least five hectares of prime property where their own home is centrally located. Around the log cabin/Swiss chalet inspired home are various lodging areas for parties and gatherings and even some elevated dais for intimate weddings. The dining area was done in shabby chic and featured minute terra cota scupltures on each table and framed art work on its walls. Ms Anne spoke to us about the history of Casa San Pablo and the heritage cuisine they serve in the restaurant. Earl Gamboa showed an audio-visual presentation of vintage photos featuring San Pablo's golden years.  It was mid-morning when we left for what was dubbed secret place.

As it turns out, secret place is Sitio deAmor. We were warmly welcomed by its owners George and Amor Bondad with suman generously drowning in what Maestro Jose Benigno Salvador calls sangkaka (syrupy sweet coconut cream and sugar) and cold dalandan (native oranges) juice. The suman was so good, a second helping was inevitable for some. 

Tomas Morato mansion Sitio de Amor

The seven hectare property has the former home of Tomas Morato in Calauag, Quezon as focal point of the bed and breakfast. Yes, it was virtually transplanted in Sitio Amor! It was an experience walking into  the living quarters of the well-appointed home. High ceilings and wide wood paneling complement the wide expanse of capiz windows and ventanillas. 

You would think it can't get any better... They have a lagoon fed by the flowing river at the back of the resort, a cabana for a poolside massage and an eternity pool, a gazebo that doubles as a venue for wedding ceremonies and parties and, get this - more heritage homes in the B&B!!! One of the homes was strategically positioned with its front windows framing Mt Cristobal when it's not hiding behind clouds. Sitio de Amor has plenty of well-thought out nooks and crannies that provide plenty of Instagram worthy photos. 

Before the laughter and all the merry-making died down hunger pangs were creeping in. It was past noon. We proceeded to the highlight of the trip which was Mark's home. We were surprised that the veranda was decked out in greenery and foliage.

Faviola Torres Hidalgo spent the night doing the welcome decor. The ingenious use of fishtail fern and its bulbs cascaded from the ceiling and also served as centerpiece for the buffet that was served in the backyard. We explored the property that had a river running through it. Not privately owned, they river would have to be shared with residents outside the property. Some kids rush through when then the gates are opened to get access to the dike and have a refreshing dip on a hot day.

Lunch was spectacular! Adobo, tuyo, everlasting, steamed okra and eggplant, longganisa, prawns, milkfish, caldereta, mussels as viands complete with dips and sauces while dessert varied from Krispy Kreme donuts to leche flan, haleya'ng ube, brownies. there was so much food, so a lot were raffled off to a hilarious ending. 

We went to visit the restored St. Paul church. For a history of the church, see my earlier post on San Pablo. We climbed up to the belfry and took photos of the bells. We were given permission to go up there and I took the chance to see the old bells and document them as we didn't get to do that on our first visit.

Finally, we drove over to Mike Asinas' old homes.  More photo ops prior to merienda were taken. As if we were hungry, Mike served puto with cheese and ham, dinuguan (blood stew), pansit, and fresh from the oven pan de bonete which we downed with gulaman at sago. There has been more improvements done over his property. A second house transplanted and rebuilt adjacent to his home is now complete. 

photo by Jonathan Hernandez

photo by Jonathan Hernandez

Costume change time! The momshies started to dress up and have their photos taken in their finery. Beautiful wooden furniture, heavy wrought iron railing, gleaming chandelier, wide doors served as the perfect settings for images worthy for posting on social media. A third home is in the works which belongs to a friend of his but it was also opened for us to view and admire. so many photos were taken I actually ran out of memory on my SD card. By the time we made our leave, the sun was already setting. That trip was just off the hook!!! 

photo by Jonathan Hernandez

CHASING CAVITE'S HISTORY AND TASTE

Myself, Bhel Esquierdo Asinas and Vicky Paris, photo by Yohann Moises*

The old adage "two heads are better than one" is never more true than when Bhel Esquierdo Asinas and Ige Ramos get together to plan the third installment of the Cavite heritage and culinary tour for the Advocates for Heritage Preservation family that was held on the 24th of February, 2018. If you think you know Cavite, you have got to be kidding! Tita Bhel is a loyal denizen of the province promoting it amongst friends and  family. She is beloved by the AHP family and the local government of Bacoor. She was recently bestowed a Women of Change citation 2018 in relation to the Women's Month celebrations for her untiring effort in advancing Cavite's tourism as a private citizen. 

Joem, Ige Ramos and myself with credits to Emy Emy Emerald

Ige Ramos, on the other hand, is from Cavite City. He is an artist, graphic designer, foodie and now... a cookbook author and food historian promoting Cavite's delectable delicacies. Ige often does food tours for heritage groups when he is not busy travelling the globe. As of this writing, he is again somewhere in europe (he left immedaitely after the AHP tour). Ige was in charge of the food tour  component on our visit. He even invited his friends - translated - regular food suppliers, so we can experience the tasty snacks and viands Cavite has to offer. Forced to concede an argument over which was the country's culinary capital, Ige tells Poch Jorolan (of Everybody's Cafe, Pampanga): "okay, Pampanga may be (arguably) the culinary capital of the Philippines, but without Cavite - there would be no republic to speak of."

St. PeterChurch

The itinerary for Cavite Part III reads like a round robin tour of Cavite's must see areas. Our registration started at the St. Peter Parish. The original church was established in 1586 and completed in 1591. It was known as the Parish of Cavite el Puerto as it was located near the Philippine Navy base. It was near the bay where devotees of the Nstra. Sra dela Soledad de Porta Vaga would flock to sate their spiritual needs. The church was utterly destroyed in World War II. From its ruins, the church was revived and moved to the current location in Caridad. The re-building was from 1984-1986 under the patronage of Fr. Isagani Avinante. The intimate chapel has an old world ambiance owing perhaps to the coral stone that was recycled from the old church. a concrete baldochino frames the main altar with a painting of Jesus handing St. Peter the keys. A separate bell tower dedicated to Msgr. Bruno Torpigliani sits in the patio of the chapel surrounded by greenery and next to it are the offices and convento. 

This was the area where we were treated to a sampling of the best delicacies Cavite has to offer. We tasted:

Baloy's Ensaimada de Cavite - soft spiraled buns sprinkled with sugar and lots of shredded cheese. Ensaimada is a Filipino adaptation of the same baked buns from Spain and Mexico. It was heavenly!

Beruete's Roadside Breads and Burgers - they provided the hot pan de sal. The buns were freshly cooked and still hot when they were served. The were also quite dense as compared to other brands I have tried and they were so good when paired with the quesillo (local cottage cheese wrapped in banana leaves. Perfect!

Big Ben's Imus Longganisa - longganisa is a native adaptation of the european sausages intorduced in the Philippines. No one knows exactly who copied who but other nations have their own versions of these sausages. I simply bought the bottled version of the gourmet longganisa variety and used it by adding more garlic as a pasta sauce. I regretted not buying more bottles of it afterwards.

Holy Crop Rice and Amadeo's Coffee - I didn't try the coffee as I had already downed at least two cups before I even left the house to join the tour. But you know how good the coffee tastes when you can smell the coffee aroma while it was brewing right there on the site. It had a heady aroma that would make your stomach churn while sampling the pan de sal and ensaimada.

Tamales de Familia Robinson - yes, there is a disjoint when you consider their brand name. Apparently, an American staff member of the USS Olympia under the command of Admiral George Dewey, Henry Benjamin Robinson fell in love and married the matriarch of the family. Tamales is a Filipino adaptation of the Mexican tamales. This one however, is wrapped in banana leaves as opposed to corn husks. The tamales is thick and dense made from ground peanuts and glutinous rice and the oil is leaking from the meat and the salted egg that's cooked into the tamales. Unfortunately, they ran out before I could even purchase a piece.

Don Ladislao Diwa National Shrine

Immediately after, we visited the Don Ladislao Diwa National Shrine. Don Ladislao Diwa is fondly remembered as one of the founding fathers of the Kataastaasan, Kagalang-galangan'g Katipunan. The brotherhood (KKK) is responsible for the overthrow of the Spanish colonizers in the Philippines. The National historical Institute declared the don's ancesttral home as  a national shrine and in 1996 his remains were transferred to a mausoleum in the corner of his property.

Cavite City Public Market

Our next stop was the Cavite City Public Market. My main tasks at the market were to purchase the Patis Labo (fish sauce from fermented krill) and to experience the Pansit Puso (noodle dish made from shredded Banana pod before it even blooms into fruit. In both attempts I was unsuccessful. I'll try maybe another day... 

San Roque Church

We then proceeded to San Roque Church. Located 34 km south of Manila, the Church of San Roque is the appointed shrine of the 17th century image of Nuestra Senora de la Soledad de Porta Vaga. The area was surrounded by water and the location of the church was in a swampy area. Ergo, when  the Chinese pirate Limahong was retreating from the pursuit of Spanish ships, they retreated to the northern tip of the area. It was conducive to trade and took on the name of Sangley Point. From the belfry of San Roque, one has an unobstructed view of the coastal area of Manila Bay. 

We also paid homage to the Thirteen Martyrs of Cavite who were tagged wrongfully as rebels by the Spanish authorities. These thirteen individuals were executed by musketry after being charged for aiding and abetting the Katipunan in overthrowing Spanish rule in the Philippines.

Ermita de Porta Vaga at Samonte Park

The next stop was in Samonte Park where we visited the original site of the Ermita of Porta Vaga. The park was established during the American Occupation of the Philippines. Around the park can be seen fully developed Baobab trees donated by an African ambassador that  was formerly stationed in the Philippines. Two blocks away from the park is what is left of Santa Monica Church. Established by the Augustinian Recollects in the early 17th century, sadly only the belfry remains.

Tita A with AHP family

The sun was beating really hot at this point and we were getting famished so we had lunch at the Cantina de Tita A where we experienced the Cavite pairings of Terno-Terno, Tono-Tono. One viand is paired off with another that is seemingly totally unrelated in taste profile and yet they complement each other. For lunch we had Chicken-Pork Adobo, paired off with Kinilaw na Papaya, Kare-Kare paired with Bagoong Alamang. We had Chinchao to quench our thirst from the noon day sun and Haleya'ng Ube with Bibingkoy sauce as postre. For sale were Pansit Pusit and Palabok in take away containers. 

Fuerza San Felipe

A few minutes drive away, we stopped at Fuerza San Felipe. Built in 1609, the fort was built for the protection of the larger Cavite City area against pirates and invaders. Only a portion of the fort remains to this day. From what remains, one can surmise that the fort was massive; what with 30 foot high walls and wide stairways made of granite blocks. at the top of the fort is a mini museum of naval artifacts that reinforce the city's position as a naval area. one has a view of Canacao Bay and Sangley point from the ramparts of the restored fort. This being a special visit, the AHP family were given special permission to visit the fort and meander around the grounds of the fort. Sadly, the museum and the fort are not open to the public.

Lt. Col. Alfred Apungol with Faviola Torres Hidalgo

Sangley Point was our final stop and it was the highlight of the tour for the elligible ladies and LGBTQ members of AHP.  The group was welcomed by uniformed officers of Sangley Point. Situated on the northern point of the isthmus of Cavite, Sangley Point served as a US Naval Communications and Hospital facility during the American period, It was used during the Vietnam War for US Naval Patrol squadrons deployed by the US Navy of six month rotations. It was eventually turned over to the Philippine government in 1971. It is now operated by the Philippine Air Force and the Philippine Navy. Our visit started off with an audio visual presentation on the role of the Air Force and welcome address by the Officers present on that day. Then we were given access to the Open Air Museum that featured air borne vehicles used by the Air Force and some photo ops with the airmen. Some of them are actual heroes who eliminated the threat of the Marawi Siege. They were the stars of the day and just everyone was clamoring to have photos taken  with them for posterity. 

Julian Felipe Monument

Lastly, before we all went home, We made a stop at the monument of Julian Felipe, patriot and composer no less of our national anthem, Marcha Nacional Filipina;  a.k.a. Lupang Hinirang. Eventually, he joined the revolution against Spain.  He was captured and jailed at Fort San Felipe and once released, he again joined the troops of General Emilio Aguinaldo, To pay respect to him we all assembled at the foot of his monument despite the traffic, faced the flag and sang our anthem... That made our Cavite Part III even more memorable.

Bhel Esquierdo Asinas, Ige Ramos and Tito Encarnacion flanked by Officers of PAF

PULO NG IILAN (PULILAN)

Mention Pulilan to friends and family and you mostly get a blank reaction from them. This  town isn't really top of mind when it comes to prime tourist destinations and fun havens. Yet, this may come as a surprise to people looking for a quick weekend get away or a road trip on your spare time.

AHP members viewing the doll house collection

Nestled on the northern tip in the province of Bulacan, Pulilan is located 46 kilometers north of Manila and is about a two and a half to three hour drive depending on weather conditions and traffic along the North Luzon Expressway. It is bordered on the north by Apalit, Pampanga, on the west by Calumpit, Bulacan, on the south by Plaridel, Bulacan and on the east by Baliuag, Bulacan. 

painted carabao heads in the museum

The name of Pulilan is derived from the contraction of three words ( see title). The area was formerly inhabited by a select few families whose main occupation was agriculture owing to its rich, fertile soil and abundant source of irrigation. The Hagonoy estuary,  Angat river and parts of Candaba swamp provide ample sources of clean water that flood the town during the monsoons and allow for the growth of wooded areas and plantations of rice and other produce.

Pulilan traces its roots back to a glorious past of civilized polities with a structured hierarchy and cultured  society. The oldest recorded reference to Pulilan's existence is its mention in the Laguna Copperplate (the artifact is now at the National Museum). In the inscription, it mentions the Lord Kasumuran of Puliran was present at the emancipation of Namwaran and his heirs from slavery after paying for a debt of gold to chief Dewata.

As part of the Advocates for Heritage Preservation's first tour for the year, interested members motored up to Pulilan on the 27th of January, 2018.  With the help of Pulilan's tourism office and individual initiatives of Andrew Alto de Guzman, Jose Benigno Salvador,  Tito Encarnacion, et. al., the tour of Pulilan was, arguably, one of the more memorable trips we've taken.

ITINERARY:

1. CASA BALBINA -  Our rendezvous for the convoy was at this privately owned ancestral home.  On that rainy morning, we were treated to hot steaming coffee  and arroz caldo and a bun that had dulce de leche in its indented center. The historical marker doesn't say much. But we were warmly welcomed by Ms Malou who is one of the progeny of the Castro family. Lovingly restored by the heirs, the home boasts of the largest balconaje (veranda) and at least a hectare planted to Mango trees in its backyard. Painted ceilings, a baby grand in the sala, four poster beds and framed baro in canamazo adorn the interiors of this jewel of an ancestral home. They have opened the home for private gatherings on a select basis. 

                                     

2. MUSEO DE PULILAN - 

Formerly a Gabaldon used for public school education, the local government deemed it necessary to convert the building into a mixed use facility to preserve its structure. Now housing a courtroom for small claims and the museum of Pulilan, the building has been divided into sections featuring artifacts from the town's glorious history, contemporary art, the contributions of famous sons of Pulilan and their contribution to society and Philippine history.

The building has a view deck on the third floor annex housing the museum overlooking the town plaza and local government buildings and a view of the church.

3. MUSEO SAN ISIDRO - an adjacent facility featuring the town's religious life,  the museum is a repository of religious images and ecclesiastic art culled over centuries of worship of the locals. The convento boasts of the largest and widest doors of any of its kind in the country*(Martin Imperial Tinio)

4. SAN YSIDRO LABRADOR PARISH AND CAMPO SANTO

Father Vicente de Villamanzaro, an Agustinian friar declared the settlement of the town of Pulilan on the 20th of January 1796. The church was built and dedicated to St. Isidore the  Farmer and his wife Sta. Maria de la Cabeza  painting of which may be seen at the convento.

The church was damaged in the 3-June , 1863 and 19- July 1880 earthquakes and was rebuilt by Father Miguel de Celis. The facade is divided by pilasters into a main rectangle and topped by a triangular pediment with the Augustinian seal. On the left side is a three tiered belfry that has a balustrade on the second level. The church has the original cemetery behind the  belfry.*(Benjamin Locsin Layug; Philippine Churches, 2007)

The saint and his wife are honored during the town fiesta on the 15th of May, where a parade of carabaos are trained to kneel in front of the church of St, Isidore as thanks for the blessings of abundant harvest.

5. HERITAGE DOLL MUSEUM AND PULILAN BUTTERFLY HAVEN

The ancestral mansion has been converted into a multi facility area where one can view historical dioramas in its Doll Museum,

Commune with nature in its Butterfly Haven or  

pique your interest in local weaves where you can purchase hand woven products. There's also a resort behind the butterfly haven with a free-form pool that looked inviting to jump into.

6. KALIPAYAN NATURAL FARM

Lunch was al fresco at this organic farm. The local government of Pulilan wanted to strike a healthy balance between an industrial community and an agricultural one, taking great advantage of what the area has to offer- its rich arable land (with kudos to the Mayor). Ergo, its enterprising owner decided to bring back age old traditions in farming with no pesticides, herbicides and no tilling and chemical fertilizers. 

Honestly, I was only able to experience the menudo they served and the veggies. All the food disappeared faster than you can say "Kalipayan". I enjoyed the halo-halo dessert too. Maybe a second trip won't be too far into the future.

7. CASA SAN FRANCISCO HERITAGE HOUSE - a multi function gallery, events venue or plainly a chillax place for groups and families, the restored mansion boasts of a who's who collection of objets d'art.  AHP members' eyes meandering into the halls of this huge converted home bulged with delight over a fabulous collection of Imaos, Saprids and Tolentinos. 

The piece d' resistance for me was a 16-seater  glass-topped dining table with bas relief from Abdulamari Imao.

8. CAFE PULILAN ART GALLERY - Next door to the San Francisco home is a nondescript cafe that can accommodate at least 30 patrons. This unassuming cafe also sells Pulilan Golden Rice in small packs for take-away. The walls are mounted also with artwork by various visual artists.

9. CASANOVA-AGUIRRE HERITAGE HOUSE- Unfortunately, on this day of our visit, the owners of the mansion had a family emergency to deal with so we were not able to take a tour of this beautiful ancestral home. Nonetheless, we took photos of the exterior with its gracefuliron grill work and colonnade and gabled roof. a fountain and pockets of seating areas dot the wide expanse of garden

10. CARINDERIA NI ENTENG - as hunger pangs for merienda (afternoon snack) was beginning to set in, we dropped by this open air carinderia (eatery). We were treated to cups of guinataan'g halo-halo (soupy coconut creamsnack) which was thick and creamy with plenty of  kamote (sweet potato) and saging na saba (banana).

11. PASALUBONG CENTER-  Unfortunately, I have no photos of the shop as I was busy procuring the coffee table book on Pulilan which is a treasure trove on information. The store has all sorts of delicacies from Pulilan and neighboring towns. It is situated along the highway facing a picturesque view of the river.

As a side note, there is an old home beside the Carinderia ni Enteng that opened its doors to some of us who passed by. The home is also more than a hundred years old and is quaint amidst flourishing bougainvilleas and greenery. There is also a small chapel across the Carinderia that is dedicated to the (said to be) miraculous image of the Nstro. Sr. de la Paciencia. From the closed iron grill doorway of the chapel one (if you were sensitive enough) could feel the energy emanating from the religious image. 

AHP members went back to the vans with bags of delicious Bulacan products and snacks and went home fully sated and happy. It was one long, wet, fun-filled day!